Backpacking through Europe in 1994
Day 68 • November 13, 1994
Helsinki, Finland - Day 1
After the madness of the previous two days, stepping off the train in Helsinki at exactly 10:00 p.m. felt like a small victory. And there was Siru, waiting for me — looking exactly as I remembered her, with her pale white makeup, bright red lipstick, leather jacket, and black leather pants. It had been five years since we’d last seen each other on our final day together in Australia, but it felt like no time had passed at all.
The first thing she asked me was, “Do you want to go to a party?”
I was completely exhausted after nearly 38 hours of travel, a hellish night in Stockholm, and almost missing the ferry that morning. What I really wanted was a shower, clean clothes, and about twelve hours of sleep. But instead I smiled and said, “Sure, you bet!”
The party was already happening just a couple of blocks from the station. It was a big student event thrown by the university, partly to raise money and partly because it was tradition to celebrate after exams. I barely had enough money to get in, but I made it. Siru bought me beers, and at one point her ex-boyfriend Jussi reached into his wallet and handed me a 100-mark bill. I couldn’t believe it — I hadn’t even been in the country for a full day and people were already giving me money.
Later we moved on to a three-level disco, where we danced to old 80s music until almost 4 a.m. By the time we got back to Siru’s apartment, I was completely wiped out.
The next day didn’t start until well after 3 p.m. After a late breakfast, Siru and I headed out into the city. We rode the trams and visited Temppeliaukio Church, the famous rock church built right into a hillside. It was a much calmer, slower day than the one before — exactly what I needed.
Reunited with Siru
This was taken on my first night in Helsinki, at the party Siru took me to right after I arrived. It had been five years since we’d last seen each other on our final day together in Australia. Seeing her again felt like picking up right where we left off.
My Photographs from today in Helsinki, FInland
DAY 68 / 11-13-94
Helsinki, Finland - Day 2
Well, yesterday held even more in store for me. I arrived in Helsinki exactly on time, 10:00. And there was Siru, waiting for me, looking as “Siru-ish” as she always was: very pale makeup, almost white, bright red lipstick, leather jacket & black leather pants.
After exchanging greetings, the first thing she asked was “Do you want to go to a party?”
You know me, the first thing I wanted to do after 38 hours of traveling, a hell night in Stockholm & almost missing the ferry that morning, was not to go and change clothes, shower and get some rest. Hell no – Let’s Party!
(Actually, I really did want to change, shower & rest, but I assumed that I would before going out, so I said “Sure, you bet!”).
So we left the train station, walked about 2 blocks, and there, right in the middle of Helsinki, was the party. It was sponsored by the students of the university, partly to make $ for the student fund, and partly because it’s tradition to party the night after a big exam.
The closest worked I can find, and it’s not the right word, but the closest is “socialist”. It’s so much more organized than the house parties American college kids have. Anyway, it cost 15 marks to get in, and it just so happened I had a 20-mark bill.
I had forgotten about this, but on the ferry yesterday I was sitting by myself, probably looking a little worse for wear, and I was eating a piece of bread, when this guy, about in his 40’s, came stumbling up to me and sat his large frame down next to me. Although I didn’t understand a word he said, I could tell he was completely drunk.
His companions were telling him to come on, let’s go, don’t bother him, but he was insistent.
He asked me “Verr frrrum?” (where from).
“America,” I replied.
“Vy brred?” (why bread).
“Because I’m hungry.”
Actually I was too exhausted to bother putting any peanut butter or cheese or salami, all of which I had, on it, so I guess he felt sorry for this kid with only a piece of dry bread to eat, and he reached in his wallet, gave me the bill, (which would be about US$4 or $5) and made hand signs to eat & drink.
After thanking him, he stood up, gave me a huge bear hug, turned to his friends and announced “Amerekkan Frriend.”
So now as I was paying to get in I said a silent thank you to him again.
The place was a large building that I found out was owned by the students, and they had the coat check which accepted my backpack!
Siru bought me beers. There was a student rock band that played recognizable (barely) cover tunes.
I met Sirius ex-boyfriend, Jussi, who proceeded to reach in his wallet and give me a 100-mark bill!
I love Finland – not even a day in the country and people giving me money left and right.
It turns out she told him I was broke and he gave it to me because he expected Siru to pay him back for it.
But after he left she said “hell no I won't pay him back, he's my ex-boyfriend.”
After an hour or two at the party, we decided to try another place. I collected my stuff, and seven of us crowded into a taxi. We ended up in a three-level disco, which also had a coat check which took my pack.
I liked the top floor the best, which played great old cheesy 80’s music!
We met up with her roommates, and stayed until 3:45, at which point the four of us took a taxi home. Siru’s place, like every place else in Europe, is nice but small. A kitchen, tiny bathroom, and three small bedrooms, one for each girl. After splitting a pizza and a few more beers, we went to sleep - me absolutely exhausted.
I woke up today at 3:15. After eating breakfast (at 3 in the afternoon?) – eggs, bacon, and coffee – Siru and I headed out to town. We rode on the trams, very similar to San Francisco’s cable cars, and visited the Temppeliaukio Church, built into a hill of rock.
After that we found a café/bar, where we had a nice conversation with an older couple about architecture, travelling, and virtual reality (they were a little drunk).
When we returned home we had a Finnish diner of meatballs & pasta. We spent the rest of the evening talking, telling stories, playing the guitar, and watching – can you guess – Beverly Hills 90210 (Thanksgiving episode, Brandon visits Emily in San Francisco) & also Picket Fences.
The Temppeliaukio Church is built into a hill of rock and surrounded by residential buildings.
The Temppeliaukio Church is built into a hill of rock.
Looking Back
These days in Scandinavia were some of my favorite of the entire trip. After the intensity and chaos of the previous weeks, the slower pace and genuine connections I made here felt like a real gift.
Being with Dorte in Rødekro and Pernille in Aarhus had already been special, but arriving in Helsinki and reuniting with Siru took it to another level. We picked up right where we left off in Australia five years earlier, and it reminded me how powerful those exchange student friendships were. Even though we hadn’t seen each other in years, it felt completely natural.
I loved the energy of Helsinki — the trams, the mix of old and modern architecture, and how easy it was to just wander and talk. The night we went to the student party and then danced until almost 4 a.m. was a blast, but I also really enjoyed the quieter moments, like visiting the rock church and having long conversations over coffee.
Looking back, I think what made Scandinavia feel so good was the combination of beautiful cities, kind people, and a certain sense of order and warmth. After everything I had been through earlier in the trip, these countries gave me space to breathe, reconnect with old friends, and remember why I had wanted to travel in the first place.