Backpacking through Europe in 1994

Day 59 • November 4, 1994
Århus, Denmark

My 23rd Birthday

I turned 23 today in Aarhus, Denmark, with Pernille.

We had grown close during our exchange year in Australia — almost like brother and sister. She had that rare kind of warmth that made everyone around her feel at ease, and I had loved her spirit from the very first day we met. Celebrating my birthday with her six years later, on the other side of the world, felt like a full-circle moment.

It was one of the calmest birthdays I’d had in years. We walked through town, bought Danish pastries, made tacos for dinner with a couple of her friends, and drank wine while she played piano and we sang together. The real highlight came when Skratch called from back home. Hearing his voice reminded me how much I was looking forward to returning — and that I was actually starting to picture staying in Kearney for a while.

After everything I had been through in the months leading up to this trip, turning 23 in a quiet apartment in Denmark with an old friend felt strangely perfect. I didn’t need a big celebration. I just needed to feel safe, and I did.

My Photographs from today in ÅRHUS, DENMARK

Celebrating my 23rd birthday with Pernille

DAY 59 / 11-04-94
ÅRHUS, DENMARK

23! Who would’ve thought that one year ago, when I was at the Backlot, that I’d be celebrating my Birthday in Denmark. Well, now it has happened.

It was one of the calmest I’ve had in the last couple of years. But altogether pretty good. The highlight of the day, without a doubt, was a call from Skratch.

But let me start at the beginning. After waking up at 11, we walked through town. We stopped at a camera store. I am almost out of empty canisters. But they recycle them here, so I had to buy some – damn expensive. At home they’re like 50 cents – here they’re $1.50! I guess it it’s good they recycle but I wish I could’ve gotten a couple more. They recycle everything here. In fact, aluminum cans are illegal, everything is in glass bottles and recycling bins are on almost every corner.

Anyway, we got some Danish pastries that were fantastic. Pernille had class from 2-4, and I went with her and found the library. It was great to read the newspapers and once again know what is going on in the world. That is probably one of the worst things about this trip – being out of touch with current events.

When we got home we prepared dinner – tacos. Two friends came over, one who had lived in Australia.

Then Skratch called. Originally I had called him and left a message with my number. It was so awesome – we talked for 20 minutes. I really can’t wait to get home. He was surprised when I told him I was going to stay in Kearney when I return, at least until he graduates.

Diner was good, albeit a little ironic: Mexican food and French wine in Denmark.

After dinner we drank more wine and Pernille played the piano and we sang songs all night.

I was asleep by midnight, definitely the earliest since my early teenage years.

My Birthday Card from Mom and Dad - although I wouldn’t get it for another few weeks when I got to annele’s place in Finland - where the mailed it because they didn’t know where I’d be today.

We’re happy to hear that all is going well and this is a great experience for you. We all miss you and look forward to seeing you at Christmas! Take care, Love Dad & Mom too XXOO
Great news about coming home for Xmas!! We’ll get started checking for you! Made us all happy!!! Am sure you’ll be ready!! Hugs & Kisses & Lots of Love!

My Birthday Card from My sister tracy
age 20, in her Junior year at Texas Christian University (TcU)
in Ft. Worth, Texas

Enjoy your birthday in Europe!! I bet you’re having REAL adventures and mystery, HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

Dear Todd,

I hope you’re having a wonderfully exciting time and seeing & doing lots. I’m so jealous! Mom says you’re doing good. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you to take every advantage possible. But be safe!

Things are going well here. I’m really busy with school & work & giving tours & going to meetings. I’m trying to have lots of fun though too! I’m going out with a guy next weekend - yes a real date. Pretty exciting. Rob & I do lots together but he doesn’t want any romance (with me anyway) but I’m dealing with that alright. Guys mess with my head too much. I’m giving up on them (yea right)

Julie called me yesterday. She's doing great. Her’s her new address and number if you get the chance to see her.

I had to send your credit card bills to Mom because I didn’t have enough money - what did you put on there??!!

Take Care. Please send a postcard.

Love you Lots,

Tracy

My Birthday Card from My sister Tammy
(age 13, A Freshman at Kearney High School)

T-Dog,
Happy 23rd!! Sorry you won’t get this on your birthday, but it’s better late than never.

So, how are you doing? I’m good. Today (Nov. 6th) we left Oklahoma around 9:30 & I got sick. I had a bag, but it leaked. It was disgusting. It was running all over my hands. But then I felt better.

Friday it rained but we went shopping. Saturday morning it rained, but we went shopping. That afternoon Dad and I went to the UNK football game while Mom & Tracy went shopping.

[A-ha! It is now 2024 and I am re-reading these cards for the first time in 30 years!

Clearly, I would bet anything the University of Nebraska Kearney (UNK) had a football game against Central Oklahoma and that’s what led to the trip to go down and visit Tracy in Ft. Worth, so Dad could watch his beloved Lopers play on the way home.

I would also bet anything Mom asked/encouraged Tracy and Tammy to write birthday cards to me during this weekend!]

UNK won by one point. It was a fun game.

[This would have thrilled my Dad and made the rest of the drive home from Oklahoma to Nebraska much more enjoyable than if they had lost the game!!]

So, how are all of your friends?

Good, I hope. Tell them all “hi” for me. Does Jeff know yet that you are coming? He’ll be very happy to see you.

I’ve already gotten you a Christmas present. Have you gotten me one yet?

Did you know that today you have been gone for two months? Wow, it’s gone by fast, even though I’ve missed you lots.

Well, better go. Hope you had a GREAT b-day. Miss you tons.

Love always,

Tams

* Smile :-) *

Happy Thanksgiving too!!

Looking Back from 2026

As I close out this birthday chapter, I keep coming back to one thing: my mom had almost no idea where I actually was.

She knew I was somewhere in Scandinavia, but that was about it. I can only imagine how painful that must have been for her — not knowing which country I was in, whether I was safe, or when I’d be coming home. She had given me her blessing to go, even though she was probably terrified. She understood that I needed to get away from the pain I was in, and she let me go anyway.

I’m sorry, Mom. I know that must have been incredibly hard.

My plan from the beginning had been to eventually make it down to Rota, Spain, on the southern tip of the country, to visit my old friend Jeff. We had been close since we were teenagers — the kind of friend I spent almost every weekend with in junior high school. After graduation, Jeff joined the Marines, and in 1994 he was stationed at the U.S. Naval Base in Rota. I knew that once I got there, I would technically be on American soil again. That thought had been quietly comforting me for weeks.

What I didn’t know at the time was that my mom, not knowing exactly where I was, had already mailed my birthday cards to Annele in Finland. They would be waiting for me when I finally arrived.

But first, I still had a long way to go — five more countries and thousands of kilometers of train tracks ahead of me.

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